While it tried to rain on Day 2, it absolutely rained on Day 3. Did that dampen our adventurous spirit? Nope. It did make one of the stops a bit.... soggy.
We started out on Day 3 for the tourism office where a bus would take us on a day trip. Because we were leaving early in the morning, we thought we'd just swing by the McDonalds on the way for an egg McMuffin. Guess what? McDonalds doesn't open early in Spain. Nor do they sell egg mcmuffins. So we stopped at a local cafe en route and ordered a Spanish breakfast. Tostada (toast) with jamon y queso (Iberian ham and cheese). Traditionally, you'd order it with tomato, olive oil, garlic and cheese. This was the spot the shopkeeper wrote down what we owed her so there would be no mistakes. She was accommodating, if not slightly impatient about the language barrier, and again, I knew just enough to get by.
We started out for an olive oil factory first. There, we saw how they harvest the olives, then layer them with hemp mats to make a "lasagna" and put them in a press to squeeze out the oil. The olive pulp is later used as animal feed or fire starters. On the mountain beside stands a castle, a remnant of days when castle overlords provided for the regions below. Many of the villages in the mountains have castles above.
We continued up the mountain to Grazalema, where the white chalk houses are built into the mountainside. The town has Moorish origins, as much of that part of the country does. We traveled twisty, winding mountain roads to get there, through a nature preserve where they grow cork oak trees. They also have a goat unique to the region - the poyoyo - which produces poyoyo cheese. We managed to walk through the narrow town roads for several minutes before the microclimate showed us what life could be like up there - RAINY. They also run the bulls (but don't kill them), and there are other plants indigenous to the area, including a species of pine. We stopped for lunch and I had my eggs (which I'd not gotten for breakfast), served with potatoes. Delicious.
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It's a looooong way down |
On to Ronda. Fans of THE AMAZING RACE likely saw this town during their Spanish leg of the race. In the middle of town is a deep gorge with a bridge. The landscape is dramatic! They also have a bullfight ring, and a matador walk of fame similar to what we have in Los Angeles with the Hollywood stars.
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Bridge over the gorge |
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overlooking the bull ring |
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Matador walk of fame |
The surprise was at the meeting point, which was yet another church. My brother-in-law had mentioned we should find a torno, or a convent where cloistered nuns sell cookies from behind the secrecy of a sort of lazy susan. We'd been told there were several such places in Sevilla that we had yet to find. HOWEVER, while we were waiting to return to Sevilla from Ronda, someone asked our tour guide if she wanted to see "the hand of Santa Theresa." Yes, the hand (read the story here). Our guide invited us to join her, and in the chamber, we found a torno! Of course, we bought cookies from the hidden nuns (sultanas/coconut macaroons). They had several items to choose from. Legend has it if you take ingredients to the nuns at the tornos, they will bless you. I asked some of the other tourists on our trip the significance of Santa Theresa, and they jokingly referred to her as "Terry." After you've petitioned her, you will know she's heard you when you see a rose. Maybe it will be a picture, maybe it will be the flower...
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The hand of Santa Theresa |
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Nun cookies! |
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This "menu" (on the left) and the "torno" (on the right) |
Next week, Wedding stuff.